Nixie clocks

Some clocks I’ve made:

Lethal Nixie Clock

Lethal Nixie Clock

Clock 1 schematic

Clock 1 schematic

Clock 1: Single tube Lethal Nixie clock — you know having all the high voltage lines exposed and un-insulated. Inspiration for this design was from this clock. Unfortunately I built mine right after having surgery. I think the painkillers had something to do with the aesthetics… Anyhow I wasn’t electrocuted while building it under the meds…That’s always a plus!

Pinout and some key components

Clock 1 Pinout and key components

ATMEGA 328 arduino with a DS1307 RTC for timekeeping. Basically the arduino pulls time from the RTC then updates IO. During this it’s got a time based ISR that: interrupts the code, measures the high voltage, then makes necessary tweaks to the boost converter duty cycle via a proportional controller. Alright let’s get to me gabbing on about it in the video. I forgot to show how to set the time in the video, here’s a quick video on that. Arduino Code here.

Main circuit schematic of the 4 tube nixie

Clock 2 main schematic

Clock 2: Four tube nixie clock. Very similar to the previous clock but uses i2c GPIO port expanders for all the tube outputs, and a GPS instead of a DS1307. This clock just needs some final tube aligning and some buttons to change the time zone! Everything’s implemented on the board/code side. Code for it is here. Just a heads up this is a ‘guide’ to making one, not instructions.

Each individual nixie tube schematic

Clock 2 individual nixie tube schematic

The individual nixie tubes have the same repetitive circuit for each cathode, here’s what one cathode

4nixieTubeProtoLayout

Clock 2 protoboard header layout

looks like (you’ll need to make 10 replications for a tube that needs to display 0-9, for like the tens minutes you’ll only need 0-5 cathodes to work. The gpio expander boards all connect to the same I2c bus. There’s jumpers on the MCP that select the i2c address, these jumpers are different on each tube to allow the microcontroller to control each one individually.Anyway VIDEO PART2, PART3 here. I did a lot of explanation in the video’s, so I’ll keep this post brief.

pinout mapping of nixie tube

Clock 2 Pinout mapping of nixie tube

Finally Clock 3 (Not a nixie!):

This is when I look back and think “I really make too many clocks…”, I’ll keep this one brief. This is a clock based on a ~3 inch TFT with touchscreen with Teensy3.1. It generates fractals thanks to a julia2 fractal algorithm I found online. My code randomly tweaks some of the constants that determine shapes/colors in the julia2 algorithm to keep things fresh.

As you can see it graphs temperature, humidity, barometric pressure over a 2 day period. The vertical markers represent 6 hours. The graph auto

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Fractal Clock

zooms/offsets each sensor’s data to keep it looking nice with the mins/max displayed at top and bottom per graph. The 3d printed case insulates the insides, so the temperature is a bit high — i need to print one with more vents.  Time is set by the touch screen (video doesn’t show that). As you can see I actually made this clock quite some time ago. Source code here.

I did a game of life with this library too. I meant to make a clock where the game of life would randomly get organisms added that would eat away at the time. This code also demonstrates the graph algorithm that auto scales/auto offsets.

Clock 4:

Hey remember that original clock? I also made a kit I had up on ebay for a while. PCB was designed with CircuitMaker, PCB manufactured by OSHpark

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Ebay kit of the ‘lethal nixie tube clock’

3d Printed Minigun

minigun

Quick post on something I whipped up Friday night: A completely 3d printable rubber band mini gun. All that’s required past the expensive printer and filament ;p is about 3ft of string and some hot glue. I designed the gun around rubber bands used for making bracelets. If a larger rubber band is needed, just do a non-uniform scale to make the barrel and clip longer (yellow and purple pieces in image). Design based off this guy’s video

Files: AutoDesk123d , STL

Venturing into 250cm quadcopters

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My quadcopter

Hey all sorry it’s been so long! I promise I’ve got a tutorial on the way for a super simple and easy to build nixie clock that I’ve designed. Anyway I thought I’d share my quadcopter build. This isn’t a tutorial! I’ve included a BOM at the end, and I encourage anyone who’s experienced in putting electronics together to give it a shot! If you’re interested but intimidated, I’d be up for building and tuning a quadcopter for you for a very reasonable price! If you want to get into this hobby, I highly recommend you to buy a cheap toy quadcopter like this one and learn to fly — I guarantee it will save you money and frustration in the long run. I’m also rank 1 jet/heli pilot in BF4 and I can say it flies similar to a small chopper when using the FPV system (wireless camera First Person) :P

Inspiration

Check out some other racing mini quads

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Better view of electronics and camera

BOM

The BOM is what/where I bought parts. Don’t forget that multirotors need ESCs that don’t do any input filtering. Get an ESC (like in the BOM) flashed with SimonK firmware or an equivalent. Check out my youtube video’s description for latest parts.

My BOM

Overall my quad is flying like an absolute champ! Unlike the QAV250, it doesn’t have a battery hanging way out the rear, which has caused the QAV250 to have some notoriously bad flight characteristics due to poor weight distribution. The only thing I’d change are the 20A escs which are overkill on 3s maybe get a 12A esc, but a 20A esc compatible with a 4s battery would really put this quad into overdrive — I’ve read the motors can handle 4s but may fail if pushed to hard.

Some terms

What is this ‘s’ mentioned above? It stands for the number batteries in series in a battery pack:  4s = 4*4.2v = 16.8v, 3s = 3*4.2 = 12.6v. A fully charged lipo = 4.2v per cell.

Also in my BOM I have a high ‘C’ battery. C determines how much current the battery is rated for. To find this max current take the C*mAh/1000 = max continuous amps. So a 1300mAh, 45-90C battery can do 45*1300/1000 = 58.5 amps continuously, but can handle a spike of 90*1300/1000 = 117 amps. In this field a spike is generally less than 10 or 5 seconds.