Xbee hive


xbee galore!

Well summer is over! I ended up doing my internship at Caterpillar and had a delightful time! I especially loved the cafe there! The D11, D7E, and 735 articulated truck were cool too.

I really hope to post some more how-to guides probably related to RF modules… I’ve been working with some ultra low cost RF modules from sparkfun and just starting to do some work with XBees after an awesome donation! I have around 60 pro/standard series 1/prototype (mostly standard) xbee modules!

wireless wii nunchuck mouse

I just haven’t had the time to write about many of my other projects. Here’s a wireless wii nunchuck mouse, and it uses a 5v limited joule theif for the power supply. This is great since it runs down to 1v. The receiver acts as a HID device with basic error detection and those low end modules are only a one way link, so it would just throw out the reading if any error was calculated.

As far as my next guide topics i’m certainly open to suggestions. Possibly a part 2 mosfet guide that goes into more detail about calculating current, power dissipation, resistive feedback, and triode regions. Maybe a BJT intro guide or something else…

Self balancing robot

Ugly! Accelerometer in wii nunchuck, Gyro in Wii motion plus (right side)

In the near future I really want to build a quadrocopter, and would possibly need to do this for two of the interns I’ve been pursuing (NASA JPL or OSF). I was trying to figure out a good place to start and actually get some tests in. After doing some thinking I assume that a quad’s control system is similar to a self balancing robot only in two axis. On a quad I would read the pulses coming from a tx/rx system to adjust the target balancing angle. So far I’ve only put in two days into this robot, yes I am aware that I may not be approaching this the best way! please leave advice! So far it’s been 1 day to get the wii motion plus working with the wii nunchuck (they have the same I2C address…), and 1 day writing the software and building the robot. Everything is very rough so far, so I’m going to wait to post the source code! If you want a copy please leave a comment and I’ll send you the three versions! Once I get more familiar, I’ll surely write a very detailed guide!

Control system:

My current control system. Edit: I calculate angle from the accelerometer right after the offset and scaling.

I’m using a complementary filter, which is used to combine a gyro (accurate but drifts over time) and an accelerometer (not so accurate but doesn’t drift). Anyway look at the control picture to see exactly how I’m doing the calculations. Everything underlined in blue I want to get rid of/move. Possibly I will want to keep the MA so that I can do a standard deviation. The standard deviation could help the platform tune the complementary filter. A high standard deviation for the accelerometer would tune the complimentary filter constants to .999(gyro)/.001(accel) where as a low standard deviation may set it to .95(gyro)/.05(accel) and make it a continuous tuning function.  I’ve also been brainstorming on methods that would allow robot calculate the balancing angle for the platform. As far as phase shift: I’m not too worried about the accelerometer’s phase shift due to the filters, but the gyro needs the phase shift to be an absolute minimum!

Talking to two I2C devices with the same address. Had to include my new tool - saleae logic analyzer

How I would improve results:

The wii motion plus is a ~20$ three axis 2000deg/sec gyro with a plastic case, sockets, PCB, and a I2C pass through chip. This really isn’t the right type of gyro for this type of robot, and I seriously question the quality of the gyros on board. I can say the same for the accelerometer on the wii nunchuck too. I’ve also thought of a few ways to calibrate the system and get the gyro/accel units to match up with each other. Regardless the results are pretty good and I may just need to tune everything. Those servos are also slow as beans! My plans are to replace the gyros with less than 500deg/sec gyros, clean up the algorithm and work on perfecting it! I also need to put the IMU on the pivoting point of the platform.


segway05 – I probably won’t get around to taking another wack at this till summer, so here’s the most recent code. Not many comments other than the blatant mistakes pointed out.

Great resources:

Complementary filter by MIT

Tilt with accelerometer

Calculating angles with accelerometer

Using wii nunchuck and Accelerometer together – Just an FYI if you disable the Wii motion plus to talk to the nunchuck via passthrough port, the wii motion plus takes about 100ms to turn back on which is SLOW. I don’t  have a wiimote/wii, so I can’t listen in on them talking with my logic analyzer. This method is good since both devices have the same I2C address…


Sorry about the terribad quality videos!

Linear resistive divider for the ADC


Simulation of changing -24v to 24v into ~ 0 to 5v.

This is a topic that’s very simple, but I’ve seen individuals do it in ways that are really over complicated. My example will show how to measure from -24v to 24v using a 10bit Analog Digital Converter (ADC) with an analog reference of 5v. The micro controller for this example will be an Arduino since it’s easy to get up and running. If you are having issues with selecting resistor values for your situation, leave a comment and I’ll help you out!

Design and deriving the equation:

Vdivide eqn paper

Circuit and deriving the equations.

This is a circuit that’s basically an addition to the simple voltage divider which gives one the ability to measure high voltage ranges using an ADC with limited voltage ranges. I’m going to be using a voltage divider that starts out at half the Vdc, which is 2.5v for the Arduino’s 5V power. From there I’m going to use a higher valued resistor to pull the 2.5v up to nearly 5v at it’s peak positive voltage, and down to 0v for its minimum negative voltage. If you wanted to measure just negative voltages then get rid of Rc (use infinity in the equation).

Equations required with explanation.

For deriving the equation, I just used nodal analysis. As you can see there is no calculus or anything very math intensive, but there are some variables. This isn’t a guide on circuit analysis, but if you need some tutorials on signal analysis look around youtube or try the book – Schaum’s Outline of Basic Circuit Analysis. Just as a warning there are a similar methods of doing nodal/mesh analysis that will get different equations but yield the same final equation.

Note: Vout is the output of the resistive divider, which will be what’s connected to the Arduino’s analog input (ADC). Vout should only go from 0-5v. Vac is the input to the overall circuit which may vary from positive to negative voltages. Vout may be found by using 5*(double)analogRead(pin)/1024.

Usage notes:

This isn’t a volt meter! If you build it and you’re not measuring a voltage, you’ll notice that it reports a few volts although nothing is connected. Connect Vac to Ground and you should get close to zero volts. As you can see the example above is fairly low impedance, but you can use higher resistors.

The two resistors standing up are both 10k. Two 10k resistors in parallel are equivalent to 5k. Red wire running off of picture is Vac and black is ground.

As for problems: the only thing I can think of is if the ADC wasn’t giving off good readings. If you’re measuring something that’s time critical or behaves sinusoidally, don’t put any capacitors on Vout since this will do a phase shift on Vout. If you’re worried about voltage spikes then you could use two  zener diodes facing oppositely. Also remember that in this example the voltage spread is over 24*2 = 48 volts, so with a 10bit ADC that’s 48/1024 ~ .5 volt increments.

Example code and material:

Voltage equations from above (pdf)

Arduino example program (pdf)

I was going to use this for a 3 phase triac driver with simple pwm. I needed a zero volt detector on one phase which would allow me to calculate the other phases and trigger the triacs at the right time. Originally I was going to sample the voltage with the ADC and look for about 2.5v coming to the ADC. I ended up using a simple voltage divider and a comparator which is definitely a better route! Now you can measure negative voltages with your ADC or Arduino!